Mar 24, 20225 min read

Once Upon a Time in Alsace

Once upon a time, a girl from Rhode Island found herself in a land far away from the coastal towns and winding backroads she had known all her life. After years of dreaming and months of planning, she journeyed to a quaint village in a foreign land. It was a curious place, where dust painted the sky golden, and houses stood like patchwork along the canal. The wind made the budding flowers dance and sent the birds flying into the half-timbered skyline.

…ok, enough of the romantic narration.

For spring break, my friend and I ventured to Strasbourg and Colmar. Both cities are located in the Alsace region of France, close to the border of Germany. As such, the architecture, cuisine, and language reflect a blend of French and German influence.

Our trip began Monday morning when we left Paris and took the train east towards Strasbourg, where we stayed until the following day. From there, we took a 30-minute train ride and spent the next two days in Colmar. For our journey back to Paris, we planned to have an 8-hour "layover" in Strasbourg to allow for more exploration without the cost of staying overnight. However, like every good fairytale, the heroine must endure some troubles. Ours consisted of a canceled train back to Paris, resulting in an extra night in Strasbourg and an expensive ticket home.

Strasbourg: Cathedrals, Canals, and Gingerbread Houses

Unlike Colmar, I had zero preconceived notions or expectations of Strasbourg. Leaving the train station, I was surprised (and a little disappointed) to find a city not all that different from other urban areas; there was a McDonald’s on the corner and a collection of hotels and grocery stores within sight of the station. Fortunately, after a few minutes of walking, a more picturesque scene came into view: a bridge adorned with flower boxes overlooking the calm waters of the canal; narrow Germain-style buildings standing on either side; people lounging on the docks below, backing in the sunny spring weather; and birds fluttering about, occasionally disrupting the otherwise perfectly blue sky. From that point on, I was entirely captivated by Strasbourg.

We had a couple of things in mind we wanted to see, particularly La Petite France and Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg, but aside from that we spent most of our first day aimlessly wandering the streets of Strasbourg. While Strasbourg is more expansive than what we would later find in Colmar, most of our time was spent in Strasbourg city center and La Petite France. The city center was an inviting blend of history, lively city life, and a friendly village atmosphere. The medieval architecture set in various shades of brown and cream conjured images of gingerbread houses and was reminiscent of the European cities portrayed in classic Christmas movies. Aside from simply wandering and admiring, there are plenty of brand-name stores, cafes, winstubs, and shops selling souvenirs featuring traditional Alsatian symbols to explore.

Towering over the city center is the Strasbourg Cathedral, which is magnificent in every sense. The cathedral's gothic architecture contrasts the surrounding gingerbread-like houses and quaint cafes and boutiques. Although beautiful, I found the effect quite haunting: like a dark shadow looming over the city. That said, the attention to detail is undeniably astounding. Pictures will never do the architecture justice, but look closely, and you will see the intricacies of the carvings and moldings that scale the length of the church. The inside is just as captivating as the outside. In particular, the large stained-glass windows are a beacon of light and color in the otherwise very dark interior.

La Petite France is the most fairytale-like district in Strasbourg. The colorful half-timbered houses sit on narrow cobblestone streets, with waterways and bridges at nearly every turn. This area used to be home to Strasbourg’s fishermen and tanners but is now the perfect escape for anyone looking to step back in time. I felt like a kid in a candy shop; with the sun illuminating the colored buildings, I couldn’t help but smile and feel at peace in La Petite France.

STRASBOURG CITY CENTER

CATHEDRALS

LA PETITE FRANCE

Our return trip to Strasbourg was unfortunately not as pleasant. It was cold and dreary, and at that point, the exhaustion of traveling and the stress of upcoming assignments had caught up to us. My friend and I spent most of the rainy afternoon in the cozy, Oh My Goodness cafe. After two months of Paris prices and coffee sizes, I was thrilled to receive a vegan brownie and large latte for under 6 euros. Looking back, I regret not taking advantage of our Thursday in Strasbourg.

Colmar: Yellow Sky, Fairytales, and Patchwork Houses

I first discovered Colmar while scrolling through Pinterest several years ago and became obsessed with the idea of a quaint French village with houses that look more fitting for a Disney movie. The reality of Colmar is even more enchanting and magical than could be captured in photos or imagined. Whereas Strasbourg maintained a sense of modernity, the village of Colmar encapsulated the energy of a sleepy little town of a previous century. While wandering through Old Town and La Petite Venice, I was under the impression that Colmar was constructed for future generations to awe. Nearly every detail, from the fonts to the flower boxes and the seemingly random objects decorating the buildings like ornaments, seemed like it had been pulled directly from a children’s story. The eerily yellow-sky (supposedly a result of dust) made the town seem even more otherworldly. It was as if I had become a character on the pages of an old, yellowing fairytale book. I half expected to see Belle from Beauty and Beast wandering the streets, the seven dwarfs marching along the canal, or Hansel and Gretel paying a visit to the local chocolatier.

Similar to Strasbourg, we did not have an itinerary for Colmar. Aside from a few museums and neighboring villages, the main attraction (at least in my opinion) are the houses themselves. During a boat tour of La Petite Venice, we learned that the local government regulates paint colors to ensure that buildings situated near each other are different. Based on medieval tradition, the patterns created by the timbered structures symbolize the resident's occupation. During the period when a woman’s job was to marry, the residents of Colmar would carve hearts into the window shutters of their homes to signal to onlookers that a single woman resided there. When the young woman was married, the hearts would be replaced by a diamond.

The downside of traveling to Colmar at this time of year was the lack of things to do. Unlike the pictures online where flowers overflow into the canal or the entire town is transformed into a Christmas market, early spring is characterized by a few cherry blossoms and an otherwise sleepy town. On our second day, we ventured to the Unterlinden museum, which, in my opinion, was not worth the price. Nevertheless, I believe Colmar is a must-see destination, and had the weather been a little bit warmer, it would have taken everything in me not to wear a long dress and play princess for the day.

OLD TOWN

LA PETITE VENICE

Unfortunately, it is difficult being vegan in Colmar. As with most places, cities lend themselves to being more accommodating to various dietary preferences. Traditional Alsatian cuisine is meat and cheese heavy, so it was challenging to find places to eat, especially when traveling with someone more eager than I was to sample the local delicacies. While I was not willing to give up my plant-based diet for sauerkraut or tarte flambée, I made exceptions for dessert. As recommended to us by my friend's boss, we visited Jadis et Gourmande for their award-winning pies. The restaurant itself reminded me of a cozy cabin, with traditional Alsatian interiors and teddy bears everywhere. Of course, the pies were excellent; I had the lemon meringue, and my friend had the apple pie.