Flying Solo: Return to Paris

“And she’s baaacckk” - many people in my life.

Or, as one friend said: “Welcome back to the jungle." Paris in early June was indeed a jungle. The entire city was bustling with tourists, bathed in near-constant daylight, and alive with the restless energy that accompanies the beginning of summer.

It’s no secret that I am enamored with Paris and have spent the past year singing its praise and dreaming of my return. In the previous blog post, I mentioned my impulsive decision to go to Europe following graduation. In truth, I bought a one-way ticket to Paris that same night and promised to figure the rest out later.

Although seeing Paris for the second time was not nearly as enchanting as seeing it for the first time, there was something so special about these five days. In my final Postcards From Paris post, I wrote: “I know that someday I will return to Paris." Walking the streets of Paris a year later, knowing that this beautiful city was about to become my new home, was surreal and such a proud moment for me.

The "Itinerary":

Before learning that I would be moving to Paris at the end of August, I had compiled a list of museums I wanted to revisit, restaurants I wanted to try, and hidden gems I hadn’t found during my semester abroad. Once I committed to graduate school, I completely abandoned that list. Knowing I would have more time to savor and experience Paris, I felt no obligation or urgency to see or do anything spectacular in these five days. So, aside from a few shopping to-dos, I really did just wander aimlessly and endlessly.

A Review of Play Airlines:

As much as this was a “you-only-live-once” adventure, it was also very much a “college graduate on a budget” trip. So, naturally, I sought the cheapest airline possible.

I had never previously heard of Play Airlines, and when I later had to describe it to confused friends and family, I summarized it as “the Spirit Airlines of Iceland.” Tickets are cheap, complimentary food and beverages are non-existent, and there’s no in-flight entertainment. I had to pay a little extra for a carry-on, but with that, I was granted priority boarding and ended up being the first one on the plane for both legs of the trip.

Having had bad experiences with more reputable airlines, I had little faith in Play Airlines. However, it was one of the easiest flying experiences I’ve had. I took an overnight flight out of Boston, with a quick layover in Iceland, and landed in Paris around midday local time. There were no delays, and the Reykjavík Airport was easy to navigate. Additionally, since I went through customs in Iceland and was entering France from another European country, I did not have to go through customs once I arrived at CDG.

Overall, I had an excellent experience flying with Play Airlines. That said, I am 5’1, and even I could recognize that there wasn’t a lot of legroom. So, this may not be the airline for taller travelers or people looking for a super comfortable, luxurious experience. However, it’s an amazing option for budget-conscious travelers who just want to get from point A to B on time and in one piece.

The Hotel Victoria:

Generally, I care more about location than comfort, as I never plan to spend that much time in a hotel room. I wanted to stay in an Airbnb but was hard-pressed to find something in the center of Paris at a reasonable price. So I ended up at Hotel Victoria, located in the 2nd Arrondissement, exactly one block from where I stayed during my semester abroad.

The hotel is within walking distance from some of the most popular tourist attractions and is surrounded by restaurants, cafés, grocery stores, and metro stations. Although the 2nd Arrondissement is in the center of Paris, there aren't many tourist attractions, so you get a better idea of local culture.

As for the hotel itself, I don’t know many people who would have enjoyed staying there. The Hotel Victoria is a two-star hotel in an old Parisian building, so it lacks many comforts Americans are used to: the room was small, the bathroom was tiny, no fridge, and no air conditioning, which meant no reprieve from the sweltering heat. This was definitely my least favorite accommodation of the trip, but I was overjoyed with the location and could tolerate the rest.

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The Parks:

Parisian parks are some of my favorite places in the world; perfectly manicured, usually decorated with elaborate sculptures and fountains, and populated with countless people simply enjoying the little moments in life. The parks are a much-needed reminder that even in a busy city, there’s always time to “stop and smell the roses.”

If I wasn’t walking through the streets of Paris, I was sitting in a park.

JARDIN DES TUILERIES:

PLACE DES VOSGES:

Every morning, I would grab a pastry and coffee from my favorite boulangerie and walk to Place des Vosges, Paris’ oldest square. It’s my favorite place to people-watch and experience local Parisian life. No matter what time it is, there’s always people exercising, reading, lazing in the sun, or laughing with friends.

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG:

Walks Along the Seine:

I love following the Seine from Notre Dame to the Eiffel Tower. Although it’s a long walk, it offers the most picturesque version of Paris. There are bouquinistes (booksellers) with their vintage posters and second-hand books, people fighting for space on the cobbled walkways, bridges stretching over the water, and some of the city’s most grandiose buildings on either side.

Wandering Paris:

The chief danger about Paris is that it is such a strong stimulant - T.S Eliot

Although I’ve probably walked some of these streets a hundred times, I’d be perfectly content to walk them a hundred more. Wherever you are, there’s always something beautiful or intriguing nearby. As someone whose inspiration and output tend to be very visually focused, Paris excites me in a way that other cities don’t.

The Shopping To-Dos:

LAND & MONKEYS: My favorite food spot in Paris and the place I was most looking forward to revisiting. It’s vegan heaven, and I enjoyed many pastries and sandwiches over the five days.

SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY: Anybody who saw me in person within the last year, at one point, probably saw me with a Shakespeare and Company tote bag whose condition gradually worsened with each passing month. Sadly, I threw out that bag but intended to buy a replacement. However, at the entrance of this cozy little bookstore, I was promptly greeted by a “no more tote bags” sign. Mission not accomplished.

ROGER & GALLET: Founded in 1862, this French brand was the official perfume supplier of Napolean I. Although their products are sold in French pharmacies, they only have one flagship boutique in Europe, and it happens to be near the Louvre. I purchased a few different perfumes during my semester abroad, but my favorite is the Magnolia Cherie scent, which needed to be replenished.