Aug 7, 20235 min read

Flying Solo: All About Bordeaux

A $35 ticket and 2.5-hour train ride through the rolling green hills of the French countryside took me from Paris to a historic city in the Southwest corner of France, sometimes called “Little Paris”. Better known as a famed wine region, Bordeaux is the world’s largest urban world heritage site. Despite being one of France’s largest cities, time seems to move slower here. Bordeaux offers the same charm and grandeur as Paris without the busyness. Unlike the other places I traveled to, there were no crowds in Bordeaux. While there were definitely tourists, the city still felt like it belonged to the locals, and there was something quintessentially French about it.

Aside from the city itself, the Bordeaux portion of my trip offered a unique and immersive experience in French culture and leisure as I was traveling with a friend who happens to be from France. Although I had (almost) complete control over the itinerary, traveling with another person was definitely different. I found all of the hour-long coffee and drink breaks a bit excessive, and he described my need to be constantly walking as “torturous”. Regardless, we enjoyed our time in Bordeaux, and I think the company saved me from the boredom I usually experience in places with a slower pace of life.

The Itinerary:

Unlike Paris, I was more intentional in my wanderings for the other cities I traveled to. However, to retain some semblance of adventure and spontaneity, I did not create an itinerary that outlined every hour of every day. Instead, I researched some of the city’s major attractions and hidden gems recommended by other travelers.

I didn’t make it to all the locations on the list, and sometimes, I just accidentally stumbled upon attractions in my wanderings without realizing their significance until afterward.

Airbnb Review:

The Airbnb we stayed at in Bordeaux was the best accommodation of my entire trip. The apartment is in a residential area near the city center, just minutes from the Jardin Public, the opera house, and several restaurants and shops. Additionally, there is a tram station directly in front of the apartment building, which makes everything all the more convenient.

As for the apartment itself, it was pristine, spacious, and equipped with everything you need for a few days (including a washing machine). Even better, the Airbnb was airconditioned, which was much appreciated.

However, the best luxury was the private balcony. We started our days with a cup of espresso on the balcony and ended it in the same spot with a glass of wine and the occasional sunset over the rooftops of Bordeaux.

Click HERE for the Airbnb link.

Day One: A Rainy Day in Bordeaux

Our first full day in Bordeaux was accompanied by relentless gray skies and the occasional rain shower. The atmosphere was a bit dreary and moody but also cozy. The buildings, although grand and ornate, are weathered and arranged so closely together the entire Old Town becomes a maze. So naturally, we wandered and wandered. We started at Rue Sainte-Catherine and, from there, chose whichever direction looked the most promising.

PLACE DE LA BOURSE:

PLACE DU PARLEMENT:

RUE SAINTE- CATHERINE:

LA GROSSE CLOCHE:

Bordeaux is very walkable. However, there is also a tram that runs through the city. A single fare costs 1.70€, and since there are very few lines, it’s easy to navigate. We primarily used the tram to get to and from the train station and to Place de la Bourse, which, in my opinion, is a good starting point for a day of exploring Old Town.

CATHÉDRALE SAINT-ANDRÉ:

LIBRAIRIE MOLLAT:

A dreary gray day and a sleepy city set the scene for two book lovers seeking an escape from the rain and some entertainment. We first went into Librarie La Nuit de Rois, which was on my itinerary primarily for the enticing pictures I had found on Pinterest. Although the old books and memorabilia were visually stunning, the store was underwhelming, and I learned that neither of us liked secondhand books.

We later stumbled upon Librairie Mollat, which is every reader’s dream. The bookstore is sprawling with one of the largest collections of books I’ve ever seen. While most of the books were in French, there is an English section. We spent an hour at the store, and if it weren’t for me, my friend could have easily stayed there for several more.

Day Two: A Day in Saint-Émilion

Many people travel to Bordeaux for its renowned red wine. I chose Bordeaux because I wanted to spend a day in the medieval village of Saint-Émilion. I first discovered this picturesque place after a quick Google search for “fairytale towns in France”. Saint-Émilion was even more enchanting than anticipated. I was fortunate to see many beautiful places on this trip, but there is something special about this village.

Logistically, everything about the day trip was easy. I purchased the train tickets (for $8 each) the morning of, and then it was a quick 30-minute train ride from Bordeaux to Saint-Émilion. From the train station in Saint-Émilion, it’s about a 25-minute walk through the wine vineyards to get to the actual village.

Saint-Émilion is a medieval fairytale. Apart from the tourists and occasional car, it’s a place where time stands still. Every building is constructed of the same stone, walls are decorated with vines, and streets are adorned with aging archways. This village was built on a hill, so the higher you go, the better the views become. Some viewpoints offer a picture of the endless green wine vineyards, while others show the clustered roofs of the village below.

To say I was happy with this day trip is an understatement. Everything was a dream. We walked in circles, sat in cute cafes, got lost, filled my camera roll with pictures, and had the loveliest time.

Day Three: Summer in the City

As mentioned in a previous blog, the day my friend left was a very lonely day for me. I wandered through Old Town, did a bit of window shopping, and explored parts of the city we hadn’t ventured to on the first day. Despite my somber mood, it was a gorgeous sunny day in Bordeaux. Without the gray clouds, the medieval gates surrounding Old Town looked more like the entrance to Cinderella’s castle and less formidable.

There’s an easiness about Bordeaux that doesn’t quite exist in any other city I've been to; people linger, and it’s quiet. On this particular day, families and children were splashing around in the infamous Miroir d'eau – it was like watching the opening scenes of a summer movie in real-time.